Toledo Archives — Low-Rent Foodie

Regular readers of Low-Rent Foodie have probably figured out by now that I love me some BBQ. I told you in previous posts about Old South BBQ in the Atlanta area and Smokin’ Dave’s in Estes Park, Colorado, which now has five locations!

Basically, I’ve had way more smoky pig than can be stuffed into a single post. So today I’m going to highlight six of the places where I have found good BBQ, pork and otherwise.

Harness Room Eatery—Pawnee, IL

This place has changed hands a few times. It has been known as Coal Miner’s Hideaway, The Stable, and probably a few other things that I have forgotten. It has been a German restaurant, a steakhouse and a BBQ joint.

Today, they share a space with the No. 10 Tavern on the Square. They’re serving up good bar food, burgers, horseshoes, and thankfully, they’ve kept some of the BBQ entries from their previous incarnation.

The best thing I have ever had here was a special (pictured above), that REALLY needs to be brought back and put on the regular menu.

What you see there on the left is a stack of cornmeal pancakes layered with pulled pork, BBQ sauce and topped with maple syrup. It was a sweet and smoky textural masterpiece. The green beans were really good too (never underestimate the importance of good sides! More on that later.). Points for presentation on the mini fryer basket of hand-cut fries, but they do get cold faster served this way, so get on ‘em quick!

One thing they DO still have on the menu that I am also a fan of is the Tavern Chicken.

Hrness Room Eatery Pawnee Illinois Tavern Chicken — Could I have another roll, please?

Sugarfire Smoke House—Olivette, MO

Sugarfire is originally a St. Louis-area chain that has expanded to 14 locations in five states. Their Cuban Reuben sandwich was recently named best sandwich at the World Food Championships. You can read about that here.

The Olivette location is the original, and just happened to be the one I picked that day, due to its proximity to Lambert International Airport.

One thing I appreciate about this place is that they have locally produced sodas on tap. I like a Coke or a Mountain Dew as much as the next guy, but where else can you go and pour yourself a Ski? If you haven’t had any of that citrus-flavored rocket fuel, give it a try if you’re ever in St. Louis or the Metro East area across the river.

Expect a line out the door at Sugarfire, but that’s OK, because it moves quickly, and you’ll need a few minutes to make up your mind anyway.

I went with a ribs and brisket combo with some mac and cheese and soup. If you’re ridiculously hungry, or brought somebody along to share with, try The Meat Daddy. It’s a 4-bone rib, jalapeno cheddar sausage link, a quarter pound EACH of brisket, pulled pork and turkey plus two sides and a soda. Good luck with that!

Brothers BBQ—Pensacola, FL

One of our main destinations for family vacations has become Gulf Shores, Alabama. We’ll be going back again next month for my parents’ 50th anniversary celebration. I have mentioned before that Gulf Shores needs its own post. Stay tuned.

My aunt and uncle are also frequent travelers to the area. They told me the story about how one time they were out for a drive in the Pensacola area, just across the state line from Alabama, and Uncle Ray was hungry, so he pulled over at a random roadside BBQ joint. It changed their lives.

So last time we went down to the Gulf, we did an outing to the National Naval Aviation Museum in Pensacola.

Naval Aviation Museum Pensacola Florida Blue Angels — Home of the Blue Angels! It was threatening rain that day though, so we didn’t get to see them practice.

After a couple of hours of wandering around the expansive museum looking at all manner of flying objects, we were ready to eat. On Uncle Ray and Aunt Jan’s recommendation, we sought out Brothers BBQ on Gulf Beach Highway.

We thought an appetizer might be in order, and we noticed Fresh Fried Pork Skins for $3.99. (Hey, if you’re looking for health food, you’re on the wrong site.) I grew up calling them pork rinds. South of the border, they’re known as chicharrones. Some folks just call them “cracklins.” All I know is my wife and I had had fresh ones once at the Soulard Farmer’s Market in St. Louis, and there’s nothing quite like them. Especially when they come out like this (turn the sound up)…

The daily special on Tuesdays and Wednesdays is all you can eat pork and chicken, served with baked beans and cole slaw, for $10.99.

I am learning with advancing age that there is no shame in “all you can eat” meaning a single plate. My son, however, has lived in Mississippi long enough now that he has become immune to the meat sweats, so he got the four-meat combo for $15.99.

I regret nothing. Except the fact that I neglected to buy an extra bottle of their homemade BBQ sauce to take home with me.

James’ Home Kitchen—Springfield, IL

A place with a name like James’ Home Kitchen sounds like it ought to have good BBQ, and it does, but there’s something else going on here. This may not be the only Texas BBQ/Asian Fusion restaurant in existence, but it’s the only one I’ve ever seen.

By day, Wei-Shin “James” Wang is a Bureau Chief for the Illinois Office of the Inspector General. But in the evening, he is busy in the kitchen cooking up everything from Tokyo style Panko Fried Fish to Bulgogi Beef to Hibachi Pork Tenderloin. Oh, and also chicken wings, baby back ribs and brisket.

Let’s talk about that brisket.

The brisket is smoked for 10+ hours. You can tell even from the picture that it is not dry at all, a problem that can plague many a smoky meat. James serves it up with homemade BBQ sauce, garlic potatoes and steamed broccoli. Each entree comes with an appetizer of a chicken wing and one of the best crab Rangoon’s I have ever had.

Did you know broccoli dipped in BBQ sauce can actually be really good? It is here, anyway. Gotta be just the right combination of flavors, of course. This probably couldn’t be duplicated at home. Like French dressing on pizza only works at Monical’s. It can’t be ANY French dressing on ANY pizza, or it would just be gross. But I digress.

James’ Home Kitchen is open from 4:30-9:00 Monday-Saturday. I recommend getting there early, because the place does fill up. And because each dish is made to order, wait times can get out of hand later in the evening.

Hickory River Smokehouse—Springfield, IL

Hickory River is a chain with four locations in Illinois and one in Ohio. Their ‘cue has won many awards, most recently the Pork Rib-off People’s Choice Award at the Ohio State Fair. There used to be two locations here in Springfield. Unfortunately, the one closer to me closed, so I don’t get this as often as I would like. It’s worth the drive around to the northeast side though.

As you know, I usually stick to two-meat combo platters these days, but if you’re really hungry (like I was this day), try a smokehouse combo.

This comes with four bones of baby back ribs, two other meats, two sides and cornbread for $18.59. For a more reasonable appetite, get just one extra meat instead of two for $15.99.

One thing I appreciate about any restaurant, but especially a BBQ place, is when they put as much attention into the sides as they do the main dishes.

I really hate when a meal has throwaway sides that are just there to take up space on the plate. Like canned corn or instant mashed potatoes that are still in the shape of the scoop. Really? It’s an insult to cuisine as well as the customer eating it (or not). You may as well just fill up the empty spot on the plate with an inedible garnish or flowers or an origami goose or something.

This is never a problem at Hickory River. ALL the sides are good. I am partial to the mac and cheese and the BBQ Ranch Beans myself. Oh, and the cornbread. If you like sweet cornbread, you have GOT to getcha some of that.

I really like their sauce too. It comes in mild and hot, but be warned—the hot is VERY hot, and that’s coming from a chilehead. If you do like some spice, but are not a total masochist, ask for it mixed.

Mail Pouch Saloon—Swanton, OH

Not many folks outside of the Toledo, Ohio area are aware that it is quite the food destination, but it is, actually. Whenever I go to visit the in-laws, my radar is up for the next interesting place. I am always bummed though, when I find several places in a city or area that I don’t get to a lot. What happens is that I either want to go back to a place I liked before, which prevents me from finding new places, or else I’m so busy trying to find new places that I never get back to the ones I know I like. Oh well, that’s a first-world problem if there ever was one.

One place where my wife and I used to like to go was Shuckers, a seafood and pasta restaurant on Airport Highway in Swanton with a distinctive sailboat on top of the building. Then, when we were visiting for New Year’s in 2017, we drove by and noticed the boat was no longer there, which could only mean that Shuckers was no more. We were sad, but not for long.

As it turned out, the retiring owners of Shuckers had sold it to Jamie Wietrzykowski, who owned the Mail Pouch Saloon in Haskins, Ohio, on the other side of the Maumee River. Wietrzykowski completely transformed the inside of the place, adding a horseshoe-shaped bar with a clear top, underneath which pictures from Swanton’s history are displayed. He also added a fully heated patio that frequently features live music and even a magician for the kids once a week.

Wietrzykowski kept a few of the seafood favorites from the Shuckers menu, including their fabulous clam chowder, but changed up everything else. Instead of pasta, the menu now focuses on burgers, chicken, sandwiches, and of course, BBQ.

The St. Louis style ribs, pictured above, can be ordered wet or dry, and come with two sides. I favor the mac and cheese (are you noticing a pattern here?). A full rack of these would set you back $22.99.

If you’re feeling adventurous/foolish, try the Pouch Platter. Brisket over onion straws, 3 bones of ribs, three BBQ chicken drummies with baked beans, veggie of the day, slaw or salad and grilled asiago bread.

OK, like always, I’ve gone and made myself hungry again. Is 10AM too early for BBQ? Probably. Art takes time. While I’m waiting, I’ll hunt up some more BBQ places to try, because you can never have too much piggy!

GETCHA SOME! (And don’t forget to subscribe to see what I’m going to stuff my face with next. I promise there won’t be any spam, unless I’m eating Hawaiian that day.)

This is the story of how I became acquainted with the best hot dog I have ever eaten. I am speaking of the Kirkland Signature Beef Dinner Frank, affectionately known in our family as “The Devil Dog of Costco.”

A Costco membership is not the most practical thing to have in Central Illinois, as the nearest warehouse is 71 miles away, across the river in St. Peters, Missouri. We’re pretty much in Sam’s territory here.

Nevertheless, my wife, Diana, is from the Toledo, Ohio area, and most of her family is still there. Two of her nephews, and the wife of one of them, all work for Costco. When you first hire on there, you are given a few free memberships that you can give to friends and family. Since we were a fan of their products and travel service, we decided to go ahead and sign up, despite the fact that we knew we would not be able to visit all that regularly.

A couple of months ago when we were back visiting family, we had some time to kill, so we thought we’d stop in at Costco to stock up on. . .whatever. Upon arriving, my wife said she was thirsty, and went over to the food court to get a Mountain Dew. Having had one of my mother-in-law’s lavish country breakfasts earlier in the day, I didn’t want anything.

After a few minutes, Diana came back with her soda (excuse me, her POP. We’re in Ohio now.) along with one of the biggest hot dogs I had ever seen, slathered in ketchup. (I’ll pause a moment for the Chicago folks to regain their composure.)

“What did you DO?” I asked. “I told you I wasn’t hungry.”

She replied, “It’s a special–a dog and a drink for only $1.50. Plus I can get one refill on the drink. I couldn’t pass that up!” I had to admit, that was quite a deal. Eventually, she convinced me to take a bite. Oh my. Juicy and full of flavor, but not as overwhelmingly spiced as a Hebrew National, which is now my SECOND favorite hot dog.

“You’re the devil,” I said. I’m not sure if I was talking to my wife, or the dog itself. Despite my not being hungry at all, I put down half of that dog in about 30 seconds. Later on, as we were browsing the store, we saw that these dogs were on special for $11.99. We grinned at each other, almost wickedly, and grabbed a package.

Kirkland Signature Beef Dinner Franks from Costco — Kirkland Signature Beef Dinner Franks. Using my shiny picture because I didn’t feel like dealing with Costco’s copyright department for their prettier one. Low-rent, you know.

These devil dogs come advertised as “1/4-pound plus.” To be specific, 4.36 ounces apiece, which is to say, at least twice the size of a normal hot dog. They come 14 to a pack. Since there are only the two of us at home, we realized quickly that there was no way these were all going to be consumed in one hit. Diana had the idea to freeze them in fours–one each for dinner, and one for my lunch on a day when I would have a time conflict at the dinner hour.

One of the tricks to the proper consumption of devil dogs is finding a bun that can successfully corral them. I think I have found the perfect one–the pretzel buns from Shop ‘n Save, a chain of supermarkets in Illinois and Missouri. (UPDATE–Shop and Save was bought out, and has since closed all their stores in this area. On my birthday, no less. Figures.)

Costco hot dogs and Shop 'n Save pretzel buns. — Four dogs and four buns. Solving the age-old conundrum of making the number of dogs and buns come out even.

I have discovered that an excellent flavor combination is the Costco dog on the pretzel bun with dijon mustard. This way, in a single bite you get the flavor combinations of hot dog/mustard as well as pretzel/mustard, both of which are great individually. My choice of complementary beverage is a Yuengling Traditional Lager (another thing I have to travel to get).

Costco Hot dog, Slow Cooker Mac & Cheese and a Yuengling — Adding some Slow Cooker Mac and Cheese to round out the meal.

Find a Costco near you and getcha some!